Practical magic is the best way to describe what Chitose Abe achieves with her Sacai collections. The garments she designs in her Tokyo studio are extremely wearable, comprised of elements we know well—khaki trenches, shearling aviator jackets, collared shirting—but put together in ways that often defy easy explanation. Some prime examples: This season she’s wed flannel shirts with chiffon cocktail frocks, bomber jackets with peacoats, and funnel-neck snowboarding gear with proper tweeds. Over all this she sprinkled a bit of Beatlemania, titling her collection, “A Day in the Life.”

A bit of history for those rusty on Beatlemania. “A Day in the Life” is the closing track of the band’s revelatory 1967 album, Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. Cowritten by Paul McCartney and John Lennon, the song has three distinct verses with three distinct styles: It tees off with Lennon singing poignantly about a newspaper headline, cuts to McCartney’s happy morning routine, and ends with the memorable (and once-controversial) line, “I’d love to turn you on.” It’s easy to see how the Beatles’s mash-up of time signatures, instruments, and messages would appeal to a mix master like Abe.

But there’s also a lyrical tie-in. “A Day in the Life” is Abe’s explanation of what walked the Sacai runway in March. Starting with pajamas—a nod to how Paul sang, “Woke up, fell out of bed, dragged a comb across my head”—and ending with a zip-away dress made of shirting fabrics trimmed in velvet ruffles and army green ribbon, Abe’s Fall collection is meant to take a woman through the stages of her day, uprooting sartorial expectations in the process. Daywear becomes cocktail attire, lingerie is suddenly office appropriate, and so on and so on. By the stroke of midnight you’ve worn every garment—and not in the way you’d think.

“For the Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, I wanted to deliver the message, ‘Wear what you want when you want,’ ” Abe wrote Vogue via email. Here, she walks us through more of the inspirations behind her magical Fall line.

Tying back to the idea of wearing what you want, when you want to, Abe explains the show’s opening look thusly: “The silhouette of this look is a pajama style, but by using a tough MA-1 military bomber jacket–like fabric and adding floral embroidery, I changed the context of the casual pajama style to be something that one would want to wear outside of the bedroom. I think strong females can choose to wear what they want when they want freely. I wanted to support confident women with independent wills. That is why I participated in the ‘I Am a woman’ video [produced] by W magazine.”

In a straightforward move, Abe transposed the Beatles’s song title onto a knit. “This is a sweater embroidered with one of the collection’s themes, ‘A Day in the Life,’ a song by the Beatles that I took inspiration from,” she wrote.

Sacai’s coats are among the more coveted items in the fashion world. This one was born from the idea of merging ski with street. “This jacket was inspired by skiwear. I thought about making a ski jacket and elegant tweed jacket into one piece. I wanted to give the freedom of where you go or what you do when wearing your clothes [back] to the individuals [wearing them].”

The show’s closing look contains multitudes, but was born from a simple reference: “The idea of the ruffles of the tuxedo shirt inspired this deconstructed dress.”

“The inspiration source of this sweater is a ski sweater, but I reinterpreted it through hybridization with embellishments of bejeweled beading,” writes Abe of this richly beaded knit. “One can go from skiing to a party wearing the same piece. It’s your choice.”Read more at:backless formal dresses | marieaustralia